Equipment

So you've just started bowfishing? Or you're not quite sure on the best bowfishing setup?

When hundreds of sights, rests and various models of equipment flood our stores, how do you know exactly which one to choose? To begin with all you need is a bow, an arrow and a reel with line. Bare in mind there isn't an exact bow, or rest, or arrow that you 'should' use. Most of it comes down to personal preference and most bowfishers like myself will try many variations before settling with the one design!

Bows

Forget everything you have heard about which specific brand or model bow you 'should' use! The truth is that any quality bow will do just fine. Whether it's an $1000 bowtech or a $150 Atunga, the fine differences arent really going to affect bowfishing. You don't need to go out and buy the fanciest, expensive model you can find. You can use both recurve or compound, however compound bows are the favoured selection. Take into consideration if you will be attaching reels etc. your bow will require a stabilizer hole (as not all bows, in particular recurves will have this feature). If you have a recurve that you want to use, then that's great and good luck! However if it's your first time purchasing a bow or you are upgrading primarily for the sport, then i strongly recommend buying a compound. You may also choose to use a crossbow, however in most states you will require special licenses etc. Therefore its essential to find out what your local regulations are first!

So how many lbs does your bow need to be?

There is no exact draw weight that you have to use. However i strongly recommend at least 30lbs as you will need enough force to travel through the water and penetrate through your targeted fish. Most bowfishers will tell you not to use anything higher than a 70lb, however if you already have a bow and its more than that, don't stress it will still be fine. If you are new to the sport and don't currently own a bow i would recommend (depending on your strength and gender) a bow within the range of 40-60 pounds. I personally use a 60lb; however you may choose to use something smaller as it will be easier to draw, especially if you are going for an all day trip!

Arrows/barbs

*Always use safety slides (see basics) incorrect rigging may result in injury or death

One of the most important pieces of equipment in your bowfishing adventures will be your arrow. It is after all the difference between landing or losing your fish.

You will notice that fishing arrows don't have veins like a normal arrow, the heavy design allows you not to need them. Whether you are going just down the road or on a three day adventure, every bowfisherman should keep spares or these.

Firstly i strongly recommend buying a proper bowfishing arrow, as using a normal arrow won't allow the penetration you will require, and will lack in the strength and weight required.

There are three types of fishing arrows:

-Solid fiberglass

-Solid carbon

-Solid aluminium

The most common of these is the solid fiberglass as they are readily available, tough and highly affordable. Some bowfishermen use carbon as they are supposed to be straighter etc. I have always used the cheap glass ones, and haven't had any issues hitting fish. This preference is up to you to decide. Try a few and see if you notice the difference.

Barbs

There are currently a few various types of barbs or fishing tips on the market.

The most common is the barbed prong (picture on left) as the fish is penetrated the barbs squeeze through the flesh and as the arrow leaves the fish, they respring out making the tip secure and unable to pass back through. When finished the tip is then unscrewed and comes freely away from the fish.

Another favorable type is the big game bow fishing tip. This specific tip is designed for those larger, stronger fish. It;s made out of tougher metal and is one solid piece. This uses the same method as a spear gun barb. Shoots easily through your target, than spreads out locking your fish under pressure. A simple twist of the arrow, folds the barbs in allowing for removal with ease.

There are other variations of these heads,;however these two are the most commonly used in today's bowfishing. They both work really well and will help you land the fish you target.

Arrow Rests

Unlike arrows, tips and the like, there are so many varieties of arrow rests available on today's market. Try to avoid rests with a large number parts or a bulky design as this will only get in the way of your line. There are also rests available that are made primarily for bowfishing.

These include:

Roller rest

This simply allows the arrow to rest on. It has a slight indentation to stop the arrow sliding off from side to side. The fired arrow rolls off smoothly, assuring a straight fire whilst the rest maintains a small, petite design. This is probably the most inexpensive, basic rest available and works great. There are a few variations of this rest (such as the AMS tidal wave), the design and cost varies slightly however the concept is still the same.

Contained rest

This rest is common in normal archery; however some companies sell it as a bowfishing sight (bohning carp-ivore etc). The arrow is placed into the center via the top and the surrounding brushes clasp the arrow in place. This contains the arrow and prevents it from moving. The advantage of this rest is movability. You can set your arrow up prior to finding a target and simply draw your bow upon sighting a fish.

Drop away arrow rest

The final rest I'd like to mention (and my all round favourite) is the drop away arrow rest. This comes in many variations, just about all major archery companies having their own versions. Some are spring loaded, others use a cord mechanism. All however use the same concept. The arrow is positioned on the rest, as you fire the rest 'drops away' allowing a completely free arrow flight path. This eliminates any chance of catching, vein damage etc. If you are after a good all round rest for field and fishing, i strongly recommend one of these.

Sights

Generally a sight is not used for bowfishing. This is simply because

(A) A fish is usually moving

(B) The deflection of light, (which means that the fish isn't actually where it looks to be)

I however dont see a problem with someone deciding they want to use a sight as long as you are still using the general rule of thumb (see basics). Generally speaking though, in bowfishing you will be quickly spotting and shooting a fish, without spending all that much time aiming.

There is however one revolutionary exception:

A lightStryke laser sight

If you're getting serious about bowfishing, or sick of missing fish. Fed up with trying to work out defraction and how low to aim, then this is for you. This sight features a powerful green laser that defracts in water. This means you put the dot on the fish, all the refraction is taken into account and bam, the fish is yours. Virtually impossible to miss a fish! Comes with a remote pressure switch and can be used both day and night.

Reels & Line

For bowfishing your arrow needs to be secured to line and a reel. In regards to line you want to pick something strong and durable. Generally speaking you want a minimum of around 30lb if you're running a reel with a drag. If not you want around 100lb+, if you get snagged etc. you don't want to lose everything! That just proves expensive!

There are specific designs made primarily for bowfishing, these include the range from muzzy etc. However any strong line will be suitable, i am using 80lb fishing braid on my reel, as its strong and a lot thinner than normal lines.

Reels come in several varieties. All of which are designed for the job, however there are advantages between the different models. Most reels screw into the front of your bow in the stabalizer hole, however like the AMS listed below there are a few exceptions. I will now list the various models of reel, starting at the cheapest, going down to the more expensive.

Drum/spool

The cheapest and most basic bowfishing reel, is the spool (or drum) design. After you have shot the arrow, you simply hand wind the line around the spool like you would a normal fishing hand line. This reel is mounted to the stabilizer thread simply by a threaded rod and a few nuts and washes.

Advantages:

Inexpensive (cheapest model available)

Easy to obtain

Can be easily made (See the basic tabs above for demonstration)

Disadvantages:

Slow retrieval rate (hand wound)

Line can spool off whilst walking etc.

Bulky design

Closed face reel

The next type of reel is the closed face reel. This has a small rod that mounts into your stabiliser mount, the closed face reel then mounts onto that rod (exactly the same way as a normal fishing rod and reel). The line is contained within the reel, you click a button before shooting and the line freely spools out. Once you start winding the clutch engages and your reel has a drag to fight fish. Its the same concept as a normal eggbeater to wind.

Advantages:

Fairly inexpensive (can get online for around $40)

Your line is contained until you're ready to shoot, difficult to get caught on trees etc.

Fast retrieval, via fishing style handle

Has 'clutch'

Uses a drag to assist in fighting fish

Compact design compared to drum style

Visually appealing

Disadvantages:

You can't see how much lines left inside the reel

You have to remember to click the button before shooting or arrow may break etc

Prone to internal tangles

AMS BowFishing retriever

The final type of reel is the AMS Bowfishing reel. This is no doubt the best bowfishing reel available, however it comes with a hefty price tag (around 150-180AUD). This reel unlike the others attaches to your arrow rest mounts. This reel utilises a free spooling canister, a lever pinches the line allowing you to wind it back in. Features strong line and has the option of being rigged up to a float (see floats below)

Advantages:

Can be attached to float

Great design

Free spooling

Super strong line (usually 200lbs+)

Dont have to push button like other reels

Durable construction

Disadvantages:

Expensive

No drag

I personally started with a drum style reel package; it came in a kit with reel, line, arrow, mounting equipment and safety slide for around $70. This is a cheap outfit to begin with. If you dont want to spend much, then i suggest starting with this too. Or if you want jump in and go for the better, more expensive styles. The decision is yours and depends on how often you plan to bowfish and how much you're willing to spend.

Floats

Some reels, specifically the AMS Bowfishing retriever can be used with a float. The small float is attached to your bows stabiliser hole as well as attaching to the end of your reels line. If the fish is big and takes all of your line, it will simply pull the float off of your bow and into the water. You then follow the float to retrieve your catch!

Lights

If you intend to hunt fish of a night then you will rquire some form of lighting. I prefer hunting of a night time as the fish tend to be less scared and in larger numbers. There are a few ways of going about night bowfishing.

You can attach lights to your boats in a fixed wide spread position and run them off batteries or a quiet generator. As you move, the area beside you will be well lit. A ot of people use this method as the area lit is often wide spread and brighter.

Another method is mounting a torch to your bow, where ever you aim, the light follows. This can be effective, however unless you have a super powerful torch may not light up a very large area.

Take a mate with you to hold a spotlight? This can sometimes be good if you want to socialise, however alot of the time they may scare the fish away if not 'sneaking'.

My favourite method of lighting is by far a good quality headlamp. I use a 6000lumen Cree. Has enough power to light up a huge area and is extremely bright. Good for a few hours of bowfishing. Where ever you will be looking your light will follow. The only downside to this method is that bugs can swarm your face and prove very pesty and block your vision. I usually give my head area a good spray with repellant before going!